Ever since the maverick chef, 53, relocated to a village in Provence, he’s never been happier - and he's never looked back (even now) My first encounter with Les Alpilles was in the early 1980s, when I was about 15.
My dad had read about the Oustau de Baumanière, a three-Michelin-starred restaurant in a valley in Les Baux-de-Provence, which was on the way down to see a flat my folks were going to buy in the south of France.
I grew up in London, where my dad had a leasing business – one year he had a couple of big deals so we started to go to France on holiday, instead of Cornwall, where we usually went.
On our holidays in Cornwall, my food memory would be eating scampi or prawn cocktail in a pub, or sitting in the boot of my dad’s car by